It had been almost eight years since my first visit to the island, plan then was to ascend Ben More, the island’s only Munro, blog posts HERE HERE.
Being retired means ‘drop everything and just go’ but as I found out on the Hebridean Way jaunt, pre-booking is essential. This time we booked just over a week in advance, accommodation was booked in Dervaig.
The plan was the usual, I’d cycle the island roads and tie up with Katie in pre-determined places.
I’d planned to do this in three sessions clockwise from Craignure, the main ferry port. AS in all things I do this got switched with me heading towards Tobermory before heading over lumpy ground to Dervaig, past Calgary Bay with the first day ending just outside Achleck, handy as an open moorland road ran back to Dervaig. The second day would start at my previous day stopping point and would finish in Fionnphort, approx 47 miles away. The final day would be at Pennyghael heading north to the start at Craignure.
The trip North early on a Monday morning was wet, torrential rain from Crianlarich made driving conditions difficult, we stopped at the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum for a coffee break, it was on to Oban for last minute shopping before heading to the pier and our ferry to the island of Mull. The rain looked as if it wouldn’t stop.
As we approached Mull we could see glimpses of blue sky to the west, it was brightening, we had four days on the island and a trip to Iona planned but I could miss one of my days out if the weather was terrible.
First to drive on the ferry and first to drive off, we parked and I got Polly ready for the first part of my journey, I decided to head west towards Tobermory.
First part of the journey was a gentle introduction to what would be a lumpy final last 20 odd miles, I had planned to drop into Tobermory but Katie met me just above the town, it was clogged up, it was up over and towards Dervaig, it was up and down on a single track road, I’d previously been a passenger in a round the island trip, I knew it was hilly but had forgot how hilly. of course, for all the ascents there were descents but I took care as the road surface in places had more than its share of loose small stones. I reached Dervaig, our base but I’d a few miles yet to do, I had arranged to meet Katie at Calgary Bay, it was busy as I dropped down towards the bay.
Ten minutes later, I was starting a constant ascent which took me over to 600 feet ASL over a four mile climb, I knew three miles away was my first day destination, Achleck. More down and ups then it was Polly back into the car and a drive over a moorland single-track exposed road to Dervaig, day one over. I knew that would be the most climbing on any of the three days.
A welcome chilled pint of cider(or two) with a bar meal…
Next morning, it was a run back over to Achleck, I spotted a few large deer on the hillside before we dropped down to the small hamlet. It was now a downhill start, I stopped at Eas Fors
waterfall, I would return to see it in more detail but on towards Gruline and the road past the entrance to the MacQuarrie Mausoleum which would take me along the shore at Dhseaig, the start for those ascending Ben More. The road was open after Gruline as you run along the shore, plenty of motor homes and tent with an almost full parking area for the trip up the island’s sole Munro, soon I cycled alongside steep cliff faces, rising slowly but I stopped and looked across to Inchkenneth, an island with history. Steadily making my way up a never seemingly end climb I had the occasionally stop to let traffic by, this is rated as one of the UK’s best cycle climbs and I could see why!, I reached the summit and
enjoyed a pleasant descent past the Ulva Ferry road end and I made a mental note of the road end where I’d in a couple of days pick up a bottle of the local Whitetail gin. It was a steady cycle alongside the west shore of Loch Scridain until I met the island’s only ‘A’ road, yes, it was a single track too (Craignure to Salen is the only two-way). I had hoped to lunch at the local hotel but it was closed until evening. We got told about the local community hall where an Art exhibition was taking place, the local ladies had our lunch break sorted, home baking no less, thank you ladies of Pennyghael (we did visit over the next two days as well!).
Fuelled with scone and jam sponge, it was on towards Fionnphort , traffic seemed to be constant and fast but plenty of passing places on a good surface and not before long, I dropped into Bunessan, I knew it wasn’t much further and after a steep ascent out of the village, it wasn’t long until I was in my destination Fionnphort, 47 miles on the milometer for the day
We decided to drive up over
the final stage of my trip from Pennygheal and I thought, not as bad as it looked on the map but I’d be back the next day. We reached Salen and took a back road towards Dervaig, we could hear a helicopter working so we stopped and it was transporting buckets of concrete from a jigger on a side road, dropping one off and hitching up another filled one.
Later that evening, we made our way over to Tobermory for a short visit and to eat.
The following day, it was back over the moorland road, a bit later than the previous day, no deer to be seen this time round. We enjoyed the run towards Pennyghael and we thought ‘More home baking?’ but a divert off towards Tiroran to pick up a bottle of local Whitetail gin.
Fuelled yet again, it was back to start the long, steady climb up through Glen More, the sky was getting darker to the north and I’d 
avoided the rain so far but after a steep section, I summited and it rained, torrential. I knew a good part of the run was down towards Craignure with a headwind, I soon dried out, a few more ups and down’ I arrived at the point I’d started three days earlier.
Polly was loaded back on the car, we headed back to Dervaig.
Day four was a short visit over to the isle of Iona, we arrived at Fionnphort and boarded the short 10 minute ferry journey , a leisurely walk up to the Abbey. The sun was shining brightly and we enjoyed a walk through the interior of such an inspiring building.
A seat outside the abbey and lunch then it was back over to Fionnphort and a final drive to Craignure and to wait on our early evening ferry back to Oban.
On the return boat, we sat outside and enjoyed the sail back to Oban.
*The two Highland cows enjoying a meal were part of an Island wide competition the previous month, I passed many fine exhibits but the cows I couldn’t resist snapping.
We were returning one day over through Glen Aros to Dervaig and watched a helicopter transferring concrete from a park jigger truck to a project somewhere to the NE of where we had stopped, there was no hanging about as you can see by the short video. This road through Glen Aros is a surprisingly excellent road with no massive hills enroute which is surprising for the island.
Once again, to enlarge the images (in a new tab) just click them.
Again, thanks to Wikipedia.
Did I enjoy the trip? yes. Having been before I knew the layout of the roads but of course, forgot how steep those sharp wee rises are, an American friend who recently had a short visit reckons that Mull meaning is hilly place LOL.
aching legs and CQ 